Some people like adventure.  And there is plenty of adventure in Hawaii.  We went to check out surf spots that are very hard to access.  Super secret spots that nobody will be out even on a Sunday afternoon.  This particular spot I use to surf in high school.  And it’s been that long since I’ve been back.  So experiencing this again brought back some great memories.  

There were some chest high waves with offshore winds.  Perfect conditions where you can choose any wave you want to ride.  It was so fun!  

Adventure also means walking down the cliff at Diamond in the pitch dark.  Riding your first wave before the sun even rises.  I can’t even describe how good the feeling is.  

Adventure is to paddle out to a spot in the middle of the ocean.  Waiting patiently for that one wave that breaks every hour.  And when it comes, you’re right there to ride it and have the time of your life all to yourself.  The adventure continues…

Another day in paradise…

Good morning 3:50am.
North shore small but coming up tomorrow.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Clouds, sun, and showers.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

This March has to be the coldest March ever!  It’s been pretty cold and dark.  You can hear everybody saying “it’s freezing!”

The waves were good!  Clean conditions and long rides.

And perfect bottom turns.

Watching this girl getting better and better everyday.

And watching her getting better doing the rockdance.  In a couple weeks, she’ll be able to run on the rocks.

It’s very intimidating trying to climb up slippery rocks with waves breaking.  You have to time it right, focus, and not fall.

And not stop on sea urchins because there are many of them wanting to poke your feet.

Round 2 we went searching for something different.  I haven’t been here in 35 years.  The waves were super fun and it was only the 2 of us out there.  We scored!