Imagine it being the biggest day of the year.  The surf report is 15′ faces that will be peaking this morning.  I have my 2 brave surfers with me and decided to take them out to a spot neither of them have surfed before.  It is pitch dark and we’re walking on the reef getting ready to paddle out.  Out to where?  They had no idea.

We get out and it gets very interesting.  I wasn’t expecting this so I’m sure they weren’t either.  The waves were giant!  Solid 8′ Hawaiian scale so almost triple overhead.  I rode the wave previous to this one and when I pulled out, I saw the next one behind.  The Energizer Bunny throws her board as she barely made it over this wave.  Right to the inside of her was Nakahodo-san about to take the full force of the wave as it broke right in front of him.  I went under this wave and when I came up, I saw Nakahodo-san’s surfboard sticking up straight in the air.  That means he was at least 6′ deep underwater fighting for his life.  It was only after he surfaced I started laughing.  Haha.

There was only 1 other surfer out and she had the biggest board.  This was her second wave and the only reason I took out my camera was because her first wave was twice as big.  She was stoked when I sent her this photo after we got in.  This is like a historic day surfing the Third Reef Waikiki.  I’ve never seen it barreling this big in my life out there.  And nobody was out!!!

Then this afternoon it was my private time.  Usually I take a nap but not when Big Right’s is calling me.  I surfed with my long time friend Jun Jo and took turns in some nice barrels.  A very long but thankful day that nobody got hurt and everyone when home safe.  I’m still super excited of this historic day on the South Shore!

Always searching for the perfect wave…

Good morning 2:45am.
High Surf Advisory! Biggest day of the year.
Ala Moana 6’+ and powerful.
Diamond Head 6’+ and wild.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf and surf.
Have a wonderful day!

The waves got really big today.  We surfed Bowls early in the morning and caught some big ones.  Round 2 we went looking around for something different.  Checked Diamond Head and it was huge!  Solid 6′ Hawaiian scale so 12′ faces.  Only the strong survive on days like this.  

This was where we surfed Round 2.  Sorry can’t show or tell you where it is.  Only 3 surfers out so secrets are best kept secrets.

I was sitting under a tree and guess what?  Yes, a bird shit on me again!  

I went to grab my water to rinse my shirt off and another bird shit on that too?  OMG, not a good day to sit under a tree huh?  

My little Princess called me and said “my vacuum broke.  I need a new one.”   I told her to bring it over and I can try to fix it.  When I looked at it, I almost threw up!  All this hair came out of the vacuum.  Of course it’s not going to work!!!  Anyway, now it’s like a brand new vacuum.