I woke up this morning totally sunburnt.  I wondered why and then I totally forgot about yesterday’s Round 2.

This girl wanted a challenge so the challenge was to surf way outside and try to catch the biggest wave she’s ever ridden at Diamond Head.  I’d say it was 80% success and 100% entertaining.  Haha.

This morning we paddle out super early again.  On my way out, I’m meditating the whole way.  A total zen moment.

To be a good surfer, you have to be able to choose the right surfboard for the right conditions.  In this case, the 5’11 Twin Fin was the perfect choice.  Good call girl.

Now everything is 3x alive!  Faster speeds, faster turns, and more sprays.  This girl is stoked.

In order to be a better paddler, you have to paddle.  So now I make the girls tow me in all the way to the beach.  Stronger muscles for them, and a time to relax for me.  Haha.

Came in and witnessed the most beautiful double rainbow.  Then I went back out for Round 2.

Met the coolest surf couple.  Just married in Hawaii so this surf session must be the honeymoon!  Haha.  Happy smiles.  More photos coming soon…

Today something looked a little different.  Wow!  I found my new relaxing spot.  

Gonna drink a smoothie, read a book, and take a nap.  I might even spend the night there.  Do Not Disturb!  

Back in the early 1990’s, Tokura-san called me one day and said “hey, do you want to go on an Indonesia boat trip?”  Of course I said “yes!!!”  Come to find out, it was the first ever Japanese Indo Boat Trip so it was a very historical one.  I went with some of the most elite Japanese legend surfers.  I was the youngest guy on that trip and also it was the first time going to Indonesia.  I was basically a surf trip virgin.  I think I was 25 years old and that trip sparked my passion to explore.  I remember this particular time Tokura-san drove the sailboat and I remember thinking to myself “OMG, that is so cool!”  Ever since then, I must have gone on 20 or more boat trips, but this one was that started it all…     

We pulled up to some spots that nobody in the world ever heard of.  Totally empty lineups, including the best left barrel in the world, “Desert Point.”  Where ever we went, nobody was around.  Not a single soul on the beach and definitely not a  single surf camp around.  This year, I’ll be joining Tokura-san for a reunion tour.  This time, there will be people, there will be surf camps, and there will be air condition!  I can’t wait…

Early morning lover…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!