We were one of the first group of surfers that explored up the Banyak archipelago.   These islands were only accessible by boat so we had to take a boat from Padang, which took us about 40 hours to get to the Banyaks.  Back then, there were no other boats and not a single surf camp.  We had every spot to ourselves so nobody hassling for waves.  We also had a special group of surfers known as “The Niseko Snow Surfers.”  I was the photographer on that trip so I just surfed from behind the lens.  This is Gentemstick boss Taro Tamai on a perfect wave at Treasure Island.  He was carving the waves the same way he carves in the mountains.  It was so beautiful to see.   

When I wasn’t shooting photos, I was shooting fish.  It took us 2 days to get there and I remember arriving in the evening right before dark.  The boys went surfing and I went hunting for the evening sashimi platter.  The reefs up there were untouched so I was like walking into a fish market.  We had sashimi/Bintang parties every single night…

Then I went back there 10 years later and there were boats, surf camps, and lots of surfers.  The treasure has been found…

Back in the day:  Sunset time with the love of my life…

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 8-10′ and cleaning up later.
Ala Moana chest high and cleaning up later.
Diamond Head shoulder high and getting better.
West winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

We get these strong West winds only a couple times a year so it’s very interesting to see the ocean.  This is Magic Island and there were onshore waves in the lagoon!  It was pretty cold but these tourists didn’t care.  They must come from a very cold place.  

Bowls looked like a washing machine.  I was almost tempted to paddle out but it seemed like too much work.  I enjoyed just watching it.  

I didn’t see a single person in the ocean today.  I was telling my friend that if this were Japan, there would be surfers out for sure.  Of course he didn’t believe me. 

I got tired so pulled over and ate the best hamburger on the island.  Then I got more tired so I took a nap.  

A nap on the sea.  Lovely…