Yesterday once more: Hanging 5 with Uncle Mark.
Good morning 5am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!
Yesterday once more: Hanging 5 with Uncle Mark.
Good morning 5am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!
Needed to do something different today so did something different. Went outside Waikiki to look for some waves.
Found a good wave, conditions were perfect, waves were perfect, and vibe was amazing.
Surfed with the Uncles. These are the coolest Uncles who share, care, and laugh out loud.
Uncle Mark on a beautiful wave! A long perfect right.
I haven’t foiled in a while so I was wondering if my body even remembered how. First wave and everything was back to normal. This is by far the best workout in the world. And also a great thrill.
Drove near Diamond Head to find a calm spot to anchor the boat. Then I jumped in and scrubbed the bottom of Mayuki. Another great workout!
I’m so grateful to be living in paradise.
Diamond Head is as green as it gets. Another amazing day and will be looking forward to tomorrow. Goodnight.
The morning crowd and evening crowd is so different at every spot in Hawaii. Mornings are more mellow, and evenings are more aggressive. If you surf the same spot in the morning and evening on the same day, you will understand.
As I was sitting in the lineup waiting for a wave, this little turtle came up to my foot and hit it. I was surprised! With all the shark attacks recently, everybody’s been on edge.
The first Boot Camp I did with Seira-chan was about 8 years ago. I started her off on a huge 10’0 longboard. Throughout the years, she’s been riding smaller boards and connecting very well. It’s pretty cool to see her surfing so well on a high performance shortboard now.
When you start to forget about the basic fundamentals of surfing, I won’t hesitate to put you back on a 11’0. You will be humbled, and you will learn how to learn again. And when you show me that you can ride a 11’0 like this, you can go back on your shortboard. Then you will be amazed on how better you just got.
I was teaching someone how to dive under big waves. He figured it out and actually perfected it. I love to watch people experiencing things like this for the first time.