No boat trip today…

Good morning 4:30am.
North shore 4-6′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
The sun is back! Nice and warm today.
Going to get a suntan.
Have a wonderful day!

I talk to people that surfed Scar Reef before and they all say that once it gets over 6′, that spot is super dangerous and really powerful.  All good surfers saying it’s a scary wave with big consequences.  It made me feel a little better because it was just that.  You’re not going to name a wave “Scar Reef” for nothing right?  

Scar Reef boat trip 30 years ago:  It was the first time experiencing food poisoning.  Your body is overheating, you’re sweating, but at the same time, you’re freezing cold.  Add to that the vomit, diarrhea, and body aches.  You feel like you ate poison.  Well, technically you did.  But when the boat pulls up to an empty spot called Scar Reef and your sponsors and superiors tell you to test out the spot, you have to go.  At that point, you feel like you’re already dead so why not try to be alive again.  After taking off on the giant first wave, you wake up really fast.

Back in the day:  North shore lobster harvest with Match and Mike Woo.