The waves have been really small so far this summer.  But it’s still really fun when you have the right board for the right wave.  I’ve been experimenting with a lot of boards recently and they all seem to be working good in the small surf.    

Putting a big and thick board up on a waist high wave is what Ben Aipa taught me.  The trick is to time the take off so you can get a good bottom turn use your knees to spring to the top of the wave.  Till this day, when ever I take off, I can still hear Ben saying “stick it up!”  

When you have over 10 magic boards, it’s really hard to choose the one to take on a trip with you.  I would like to take them all, but for this upcoming trip, I’m only taking one.  I already changed my mind 4 times and I still don’t know which one to take.  I’m so confused…

Happy April Fools Day!

Good morning 3:35am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph
Sun, clouds, and rainbows.
Have a wonderful day!

This morning was the 4th day in a row surfing at Rockpiles.  Today one of the locals paddled out and said “why aren’t you at Bowls anymore?”  Haha.  If you don’t know me by now, I go where’s the best.  And for the past 4 days, Rockpiles was the best.  

Seigo-san and I had an amazing session.  The conditions were perfect.

Then we watched the “Easter Sunday” sunrise from the ocean.  It was amazing.

Seigo-san practicing the cutback today.  This is a very important maneuver for surfing.  If you can’t do it, you better figure it out.  It all starts off with a nice clean bottom turn.

Then next is aligning your front arm, eyes, and board to the opposite direction.  

Then you will feel the spray coming off the outside rail of your surfboard.  This feels amazing.

The past 3 days were empty but today being a Sunday, it was packed.  A total of 3 locals out.  Lucky Sunday because there are usually 15 locals out every morning.  Thanks boys for sharing your lineup.  

Boot Camp has some risks.  Risks that lead to a bloody face.  No, I didn’t punch Seigo-san, his surfboard did.  Haha.