Drive by Tennis Courts:  OMG, very crowded!

Good morning 3:50am.
North shore chest high and good.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions.
Sun, clouds, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Another perfect morning with cool clouds and an amazing sunrise.

I paddled out to Bowls and it was so good!  Perfect chest high sets with the cleanest conditions all month.  I caught 2 really good sets and as I was paddling back out, I thought to myself “umm, with this swell and conditions, somewhere else must be good too.”  Then I remembered!  I caught a tiny inside wave and paddled my fastest back to my car, jumped in, and left the parking lot still dripping wet.

I totally forgot I have a boat!!!  I jump on Mayuki and went full speed to my secret spot.  I was so excited because I knew it would be good, and best of all, uncrowded.

I get there and nobody was out.  Good!  Then the first wave started to approach the lineup and it peeled like a perfect Indonesia wave.  Great!  This first wave was barreling the whole way as my heartbeat started to pump.  I grabbed my board, paddled to the lineup, and had the best session ever.  After one hour of consistent pumping point rights, I was content.  I love boat trips!

I finally got to download photos of my Canon 79D.  Check these out for now.

Kimura-san 71 years young.

Matsu and Kimura-san sharing the lineup at the Secret Spot.

Takami-san with speed, power, and flow.

Matsu flying around like an Indonesian eagle.  

Carter heading out to a spot all to himself.

Ken is the best driver in Indonesia.  Speaks Japanese, surfs good, and takes the best care of his guests.