Ocean>We

Right in front of our resort was this beautiful beach.  The waves are usually small and clean, but on this trip, it was the total opposite.  Very big and challenging but the boys gave it a try.  It was only us out so it was we verses the ocean.  

Strong current in the inside but calm on the outside.  Big closeouts so we were dodging the waves and turtles.  I haven’t seen that many turtles in Indonesia before.  Now that it’s illegal to eat, you see them everywhere.

Kimura-san is 71 years old but has the energy of a 17 year old.  It was pretty scary watching him dive under 6′ waves breaking over his head.  And he wasn’t scared at all.  

Carter was finding the cleaner waves and ripping it.  The location of this surf spot was pretty magical.  Untouched Indonesia jungle!    

There was a poisonous sea snake on the beach when we were watching Kimura-san surf.  So Matsu carefully put it back in the ocean.  After he did that, we were “opps, Kimura-san is still surfing!!!”

Tow In Foiling Indonesia

It was very cool to tow in foil with Matsu.  We rented a boat, went out to the outer reef and had the time of our lives.  Matsu was ripping on his foil!  

On my surfboard, I’m trying to go faster, but on my foil, I’m trying to go slower.  The speeds you can get up to on a foil are crazy.  There were some waves where I was thinking “if I fall, I’m going to get hurt.”  

I had a pretty bad wipeout.  I was just hoping my knee was still together when after I landed.  Thank goodness nothing broke.  

Before I left Hawaii, I told myself “Go on this trip and be present.  Enjoy each other, each moment, and make memories.”  Up until recently, I would always have to be on my computer or phone for work, but this trip, I put that aside and spent just minutes instead of hours online.  By doing that, I was more present and it was nice to enjoy each others company.  I wish I did this years earlier but I never look back.  Going forward, I will be less and less online, and more and more time inline with my friends and living in the moment.  So sorry for not replying to everyones messages or emails.

Tow Time

Tow in foil time! Let’s go!!!