The past 2 days in Bali have been small, but the swell arrived on time this afternoon.  Tomorrow we will head to another island and start the surf trip we’ve all been waiting for.  

The water is pretty cold.  The air is cool.  But when you have the best wetsuits in the world, it’s always warm.  Tokura-san at Kuta Beach.  

Landed in Bali and went to Mike’s house to pick up some surfboards.  That night turned into a party.  Good friends and good vibes.  

I took over a bottle of tequila and that’s when the party really started.

One of the Bowls girls told me that Eri-chan was in Bali.  So I texted her and next thing you know, we were having a great time together.  A super fun night with Carter, Mike, and Eri-chan.

Bali and Japan legends and friends. Party at Lusa Inn…

It was 30 years ago when I went on my very first surf trip to Bali.  Back then, Bali was a lot different.  Less people, buildings, noise, and undiscovered waves.  Tokura-san brought me to Kuta Beach on the very first day.  I surfed it and wasn’t too sure why Indonesia was supposed to be special.  The next day, we got on a big sailboat and crossed some islands.  We woke up at Scar Reef and it was pumping.  My first wave was a very big, scary, and powerful barrel.  It was then I understood why Indonesia was the most sought out wave in the whole wide world.

Tokura-san and I were talking about that first trip while surfing Kuta this morning.  And guess where we’re going tomorrow?   Yes, Scar Reef on a forecasted pumping swell!  This is a full circle of 30 years for us.  We know things will be a lot different there, but the experience is what we’re in for.  Just to be able to come back together to a very special place after 30 years, we are very grateful.  I think growing up, you appreciate things more.  I’m just glad to be alive because a lot has happened in those past 30 years….