After 4 weeks of not standing up, it felt so good to surf again. Standing up for the first time the other day felt the same when I caught my first wave at 7 years old.  

It’s crazy how you can be injured but still surf.  I limp at home and on the beach, but once I’m in the ocean, the pain is totally gone.  

If I were to choose just one surfboard out of my 80 board collection, this would be it.  This one is definitely going to Indonesia with me.  

It seems pretty far away from the camera, but it’s actually very close.  Neal’s shooting with a fisheye lens so the closer you get, the better the photo will be.  The only thing is it’s very dangerous so you kind of have to trust each other.  

I’ve been surfing my entire life but having the most fun right now.  Crazy how life only gets better with age.  More appreciation, more simple, and more flow.  This is my happy place…

Thank you again Neal Miyake for putting yourself in very uncomfortable positions.  You’re the man!

Wow, another beautiful morning in Hawaii.  Days where there are lots of clouds like this is very interesting.  You never know what’s going to happen.  Besides the calmness of the ocean, the sky was something else.  

You just never know as a rainbow just popped up right behind Torii-san.  

We had a great time talking about surfing and enjoying the moment.  It’s his first time surfing in Hawaii so today was special.  

Torii-san has been surfing for about 20 years but today was a new beginning.  Longer rides surfing with style and flow.

Meeting these cool surfers and sharing waves with them makes me really happy.  Thank you Torii-san for an amazing morning!

Want to thank Hayato for sending me this photo of Takahashi-san and I sitting on the beach under the full moon.  I just love everything about surfing, including just sitting on the beach under a full moon with your friend.

When I say “PADDLE!!!” you better PADDLE!!!

And if you paddle, I can ride behind and capture the beautiful moment.  Takahashi-san the style master.  

Jiro-san on a proper Bowls left.  Lucky he got this one.

Yeah, This is paradise.

And paradise doesn’t get any better than this.

“SAMURAI IN CAR”  Haha!  I love it.  I want this sticker!!!