Want to thank Hayato for sending me this photo of Takahashi-san and I sitting on the beach under the full moon.  I just love everything about surfing, including just sitting on the beach under a full moon with your friend.

When I say “PADDLE!!!” you better PADDLE!!!

And if you paddle, I can ride behind and capture the beautiful moment.  Takahashi-san the style master.  

Jiro-san on a proper Bowls left.  Lucky he got this one.

Yeah, This is paradise.

And paradise doesn’t get any better than this.

“SAMURAI IN CAR”  Haha!  I love it.  I want this sticker!!!

Back in the Day:  Jason Shibata, Gen Asano, Cole and Kylen Yamakawa.  An epic day at Big Rights sharing barrels.

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm after some rain in the morning.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Neal sent me this photo 6 weeks ago.  This was the day I injured my knee.  It was a small day but these are the days surfers usually get hurt.  Since then, I’ve been doing intensive physical therapy with my Doctor 2x a week, and more intensive physical therapy the other 5 days a week by myself.  Even though this is supposed to be a 3-4 month injury, I was determined to get back in the ocean before my trip.    

Neal sent me these photos just now.  This was the past swell we had.  Four weeks into my injury, I’m surfing at 70%.  My knee still hurts so I’m still holding back somewhat.    

All that physical training I’ve been doing every morning at 3am when I wake up has made me stronger.  If this is 70%, I can’t wait till I’m back at a 100%.  Thank you Neal for this photo because it’s inspiring me to get mentally stronger, physically stronger, so I can surf stronger than ever.

By the way, I hope my Doctor doesn’t see this.  He will scold me.  I’m only supposed to be going straight on a longboard.  Opps…