Wednesday August6日 2025年

Wax ON, Wax OFF….

good sunday morning. i’m so happy! the waves are still here! sunny, warm, and looking good! i’m going surfing all day again. see you in the water!!! oh, heard another typhoon is heading to japan. i’m ready! i should be getting some calls soon and if you see me in japan in a day or so, don’t be surprised. i’m not done chasing typhoons and i’m looking forward to the next one… have a nice day….

i just downloaded the photos from the go-naminori party. gosh, there were so many happy faces! this girl scored! imagine coming to a party and walking home with this? a lot of people wanted kelia’s longboard and the bummer is that only one could win it. maybe next year she can give 10 longboards away?

WAX ON… WAX OFF…. i spent 2 hours in the sun yesterday waxing my car. it’s been sitting on the street for over a month with bird shit all over it. kawaiso datta… now it’s as clean as can be. i love my clean car!!!

and last, check out this old school photo from 14 years ago in bali. no cell phones and no internet. it was just pure everyday surfing, and pure every night drinking! i wish i could go back to those days cause these days are so dam complicated… “did you call home? did you do your blog? did you see the surf forecast?” please, i don’t want to hear any of that after getting barreled all day at padang padang…. all i want is my cold bintang and my friends to enjoy what happened earlier that day…. matchi, budin, noboru-san, watanabe-san, ganti, me, and a bunch of the hard core japanese and balinese surfers that we met along the way. pure surfing is pure happiness…

GO-BIKINI GIRLS!

good morning. 5 am and things are brewing up in the north pacific. i’m getting excited! but before that, got a few more things to do before i leave hawaii. gotta get going. have a nice day…

last time i was in japan, atsuko-san taught me something very important. she said “kirby, you have to spear the fish in the gills, or close to the head.” she told me the sashimi tastes much better when the fish bleeds instantly. so when i’m waiting down 40′ on the bottom of the ocean, i can hear atsuko-san talking to me. and i won’t take the shot unless it’s in the right spot. if i took these 2 fish to atsuko-san, she’d be proud of me….

the bali video is coming out soon. check out little 11 year old girl ren-chan. she was surfing against the boys and actually beat a few. i saw her surfing at the roxy pro last month and gosh, she was ripping!! future grand champion? somebody want to bet me? i know talent when i see it, and ren-chan has talent…

if you asked me when i started shooting surfing photos that someday i’d be shooting beautiful models in bikinis, i’d tell you to get out of here. people think it’s easy but it’s not. my lens gets fogged up all the time? why is that? haha. just joking… working with these models was really fun. they were really professional and easy to work with. the photos came out much better than i thought and i wanted to thank tiare and the girls for working so hard! can’t wait to do it again! oh wait, i forgot photo shoot for vol. 4 is today! i better get going!!!
**CHECK OUT VOL. 3 BIKINI SECTION….

Surf plenty…


Eat plenty…
Secret Yakiniku!
Cheap and oishi!