i wanted to take a break from the ocean today but when i woke up and saw the perfect Summer conditions, i couldn’t resist.  the waves were smaller, but it was so beautiful!

the tide was really low for the last big swell.  i’m glad i didn’t hit the reef too hard.

it was pretty empty and if you chose the right wave, you could score like this.  last week was challenging, today was playful…

i found a box with my old ASP World Tour member cards from 1992-1997.  the ASP (Association of Surfing Professionals) is now called the WSL (World Surf League.)   i use to surf the same contests with guys like Tom Curren, Martin Potter, Dane Kealoha, Derek Ho, and other legends.  i remember being the young guy that took the leftover waves.  i was actually nervous and scared.  haha…

Happy Mother’s Day!

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds backing down to 20mph.
Summer weather returning. Sunny and warm.
Going to twin fin.
Have a wonderful day!

omg, i paddled out to Bowls this morning and it was back to normal.  crowded!!!  and it was also kind of cold.  if you didn’t have a wetsuit top today, you would have been freezing.  waves were fun though!

i tried to stay away from the crowds in Bali and that wasn’t too hard.  most of my surfing and foiling sessions, i was all alone…

and when you’re flying all alone, life can’t get any better.  this particular day, i rode 2 waves and i was totally content…

then i came in, picked a handful of beautiful shells, and went for a nice sunset dinner.  Bintang and fresh grilled fish!  gosh, i miss Bali already…