when my friends ask me where i’ve been surfing, i tell them on the North Shore.  then when they ask again, i change the subject.  i don’t want to tell them exactly where i’m surfing because it’s a super secret spot.  and the reason it’s still a secret spot is because i don’t tell anyone where it is.  it’s usually one me out but Trinko was right behind me on this day.  just the 2 of us sharing waves and laughs.

i was pretty heartbroken when Seth lost in the quarter finals at Sunset.  my heart hurt so bad that i still feel sick.  after he lost, the WSL interviewed him.  i watched it when i got home and thought to myself “gosh, Seth is a great when he wins, and great when he loses.  he shows true sportsmanship and somehow is very poise.”  i can’t be more proud of this kid. 

looking back at all the photos i took of Seth, this one was the cutest.  he was surfing out at Queen’s without a leash before he even learned how to swim.  the only reason is he didn’t want to be left behind by his brothers and sister.  i had some of the most amazing surf sessions with all 5 of the Moniz kids out there.  i use to sit with my camera and just laugh all day…

True Colors…

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore chest high coming up to overhead today.
Ala Moana waist high with bigger sets.
Diamond Head chest high and getting bumpy again.
Trade winds back at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

the waves were small today so we decided to do something a little different.  we arrived at one of my favorite power spots and had an exciting morning.  when you arrive here, the ocean looks so big!  and we look so small!

and there is only one way into the ocean, which is to jump!  i’ve been teaching this girl how to be calm and this is the place to practice being calm.  it’s so alive and so much water moving that it’s kind of freaky.  many people have died here mostly by panicking.  so today’s lesson was all about keeping calm no matter what.

when ever i take my spear here, i never ever see fish.  but today i didn’t take my spear and guess what?

there were many of fish swimming right up to me.  it’s pretty crazy how the fish know when they’re not being hunted.

it’s so beautiful and peaceful in this amazing underwater world.  now i truly believe in mermaids.  on the drive home, we were both falling asleep.  i had one of the best afternoon naps of the year today…