Friday afternoon V-Land.  EMPTY and EPIC!

Good morning 5am.
North shore head high and perfect.
Ala Moana waist high and box jellyfish.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light wind so nice conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

i started off the day with a dawn patrol out in the middle of the sea.  today was the best day for my foiling life because i caught the biggest and best wave ever!  i was flying!!!

it’s amazing how much you can learn just by putting yourself in the most dangerous situations.  but in the end, it all comes down to your mental game.  the more calm you can be, the more chance you can survive.

you just never know when you’ll get the wave of your lifetime.  totally unexpected, but today was that day for me…

the waves were so good so i stayed out on the North Shore all day.  when i saw Velzyland barreling at 3-5′ and totally empty, i grabbed my short board and joined the dream session!

it was good to see my North Shore surfer friends in the ocean today.  and it was also good to spend one of the best days of my life in the ocean today.  as you get older, life only gets better…

gosh, we’ve been having some really beautiful sunrises and sunsets recently.  the winds are cool, the air is crisp, and the colors are amazing.  

i was surfing Bowls yesterday and two of the longtime locals come out.  Lance Hookano and Brian Amona have been surfing longer than most of us were even alive.  they traveled the world, they are very respected, and they come from some deep Hawaiian bloodline.  if these guys paddle out to any spot on this island, stay clear.  don’t even paddle for a wave they paddle for.  and if you don’t know them personally, don’t even look at them.  i’m just lucky i know these guys because if i didn’t, i would paddle in if they both were out.  why?  because there are usually 2 waves per set, and these guys get both of them, and when they get back out to the lineup, they don’t have to wait in line.  it’s just the rules you follow…

Brian taking off and as you can see, nobody is paddling for this wave and nobody is in his way.  that’s called “respect.”  

Lance has been like an older brother to me for the past 35 years.  super grateful for him always being nice to me.  a good guy to know in the water, and out of the water…