sometimes i’ve been going to sleep at 6:30pm.  some people laugh at me but after my solid 8 hours of sleep, my day starts at 2am.  we’re in the water in the dark waiting for the light.  and when it lights up, we’re living the dream.  this morning was epic! 

i fell i few times on my chest and if i didn’t have this impact suit, i’d break my bones.  so yeah, thank you Dove for saving me the pain!  

i stopped by John Amundson’s foil shop in Haleiwa on the way back to town.  this guy knows everything about foiling so i’d have to say he’s the best guy to get your foil stuff from.  John shaped my very first foil board so i’m very grateful.  i ended up buying the brand new wing.  i can’t wait to use it tomorrow!   that kid in the middle is @banzaigrom Mala’e.  he’s only 13 years old and probably the next Kai Lenny.  he was doing backflips out there this morning!  crazy!!!

this was the 2nd time in 2 years that somebody burnt down the surfboard racks in Waikiki.  the first time was at night, this time was in broad day light.  

the crazy thing is the surfboard racks are right between the Moana Surfrider and Waikiki Police station.  imagine if it spread?  

over 500 surfboards burned with estimate damages over $600,000.  there were some classic boards, magic boards, and sentimental boards that can never be replaced.  pretty sad news…

better news is Joshua is coming back to Hawaii today!  i’m so happy he’s finally going to be able to sleep in his own bed.  he will doing rehabilitation and i’m almost guaranteed that he’ll be back to free diving before surfing.  and when he takes his first dip into the ocean, it will heal him instantly.  the ocean fixes everything…

Rest time on a white sandy beach of Hawaii…

Good morning 3am.
North shore head high and perfect.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going North.
Have a wonderful day!