Wind Beneath our Wings…

every night before i sleep, i make sure i have my tow in board ready just in case i go.  everything is decided at 3:30am and have to leave my house by 4am.  if i’m not ready, i will be left behind at the harbor.  that’s not good…

everyday i’m in the ocean, i’m learning from the best of the best.  these guys are the most experienced and respected watermen in the world.

we got out when it was still pitch dark.  all you could see was the moonlight reflecting off the ocean.  i was first up and tried to take a photo, but it was too dark.  just let me say this “it was scary, but at the same time, pretty dam beautiful!”

we are just practicing now.  trying to fine tune our equipment, fine tune with the ocean, and fine tune how we connect with your partner.  it’s a lot to think about while being calm at the same time…

but at the end of the day, nothing beats the feeling of flying down huge mountains with the wind blowing in your face.  whenever somebody asks me how much everything costs?  i tell them “it’s priceless.”  haha…

Loving the Japanese Haters

when i was making youtube videos, i would get all kinds of comments.  after a while, i stopped replying because some were not worth my time.  there are a lot of haters in the world and i won’t give them a second of my life.  check this one out:  “eh you fucken jap go back japan!!!”  you japs don’t know who to surf you just fucken take up space in da lineup.  fuck you jap go home japan.”  

in my lifetime, i had 2 experiences of guys saying that exact same thing to my face in the water.  to me, that’s fighting words!  so i instantly attacked them and kept on punching them in the face until my hands were bleeding and broken.  my anger overtook the pain.  if my friends didn’t pull me off i probably would have gone to jail.  i still get angry thinking about it.  i better go take some deep breaths…

anyway, check out the video the guy left the comment on.  i was commenting in Japanese but youtube deleted the audio.  don’t know why, but they did.  anyway, most of these Japanese are my nieces, nephews, and friends.  and no, we aren’t going back to Japan.  i think the guy who wrote this comment needs to come to Hawaii and experience some aloha.  this is how we enjoy Hawaii, this is how we enjoy surfing, and this is how we enjoy life.  jealousy and hate won’t get you anywhere…

 

 

October 21, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Going towing!

Good morning 3:10am.
North shore 5′ and perfect!
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light winds so really nice morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going North.
Have a wonderful day!