wow, it was another beautiful day in town.  a nice South swell with absolutely perfect conditions.  i went out with my foil, rode waves, saw some perfect shoulder high sets, foiled a wave to the beach, got my shortboard, and paddled back out.  today’s surprise swell was better for a shortboard.

the swell direction and the winds were the best it’s been for a very long time.  it was super perfect Ala Moana Bowls!

Chizu-chan was getting a lot of good waves today.  not too many people knew about this freak swell so the surfers out this morning scored!

long perfect lefts all morning long.  one of my best Bowls sessions in a very long time.

well, the waves on the North shore finally came up.  i already got the call so tomorrow i’ll be there in the full moon waiting for first light to come.  then i’ll be flying high!

my brother was down at Bowls and sent me a video of something weird.  this rescue helicopter landed on the rocks!  i didn’t know that was even possible???

he said they picked up 2 lifeguards and headed to Diamond Head.  it amazes me how good our rescue team is.  they literally risk their own lives to save others.    

the video was pretty crazy because after leaving the rocks, the helicopter flew so close to the people standing on the beach.

i don’t like to talk about politics but i can’t keep my mouth shut when i see North Korean missiles flying near Japan.  i always thought that strong leadership prevents conflicts like this.  if you do things like this, there will be consequences.  and that’s the truth.  when you have weak leadership, there are no consequences so other countries will literally test you out.  and when nothing happens, they will keep on firing missiles.  so not being political, i just want a leader that is strong and will protect the US and Japan.  right now, that doesn’t seem to be the case.  bummer…

Awesome wave Kid!

Good morning 3:45am.
North shore chest to shoulder high and getting bigger. Perfect conditions.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!