i was up at 3am this morning trying to mount my foot step to my foil board.  i couldn’t get it in right so i started to get frustrated.  imagine being frustrated at 3am?  not the best way to start the day.  haha.

then i went down to the shipping dock to help my friend pick up his new toy.  

life is so easy when you have friends all over the island.  our friend Kimo guiding us around this morning and making everything so easy.  

if you’re a man, you love toys.  want to congratulate my friend on his new power toy!  i won’t say his name until later because i’m sure everybody is going to call him up for a ride.  haha.  

grabbed a bento in Chinatown for just $8.  it was healthy and happy food!!!

did you ever hear of a surfer named Greg Apo?  he’s an underground local that’s been surfing his whole life.  we use to compete in contests together back in the early 1990’s so i know him well.  he’s the kind of guy that can paddle out to Pipeline/Backdoor, or any spot on the island and get any wave.  and he’s also the kind of guy you do not want to drop in on.  if he paddles for a wave, you do not even paddle for it.  it’s guys like Greg that can surf any spot on this island and instantly be on the top of the local food chain.  the friendliest guy if you know him, but the scariest guy if you don’t.

i was at Bowls the other morning and guess who paddles out?  yes, Greg Apo.  of course nobody knows him because he doesn’t surf out there.  you could be a local for 20 or 30 years out there but to guys like this, it doesn’t matter.  he will get his waves and if you know him like i know him, you better be humble.  anyway, i teach this to my friends “no matter how consistently or how long you’ve been surfing at a spot, there’s always somebody else that’s above you on the food chain so be very careful.”  this is a classic example of that.  nice to see you and nice to chat with you Greg.   you still rip brother!!!

Speed Matters!

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana knee to waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high sets and good.
Lighter trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!