i drove out to the North Shore in the dark and when i pulled up to this secret spot, the enforcer was out already.  you do not want to paddle for any wave Kaiborg paddles for.  you should just watch and learn…

one of the most smoothest and powerful foilers in the world.  from knee high to 30′, this guy can do it all…

super stoked to foil with Glen Pang.  one of the most famous shapers in the world.  just by talking to Glen, i learn a lot about boards and foils.  the best education is listening to experienced guys like this…

just had 5 of us out this morning enjoying the beautiful sunrise session.  i was heading back to town and it was still 8am.  what a great start to a long wonderful day!

so happy to see Nao-san enjoying the beauty of Japan!  

if you haven’t tried free diving, i would highly recommend it to you.  you will see experience peace at its best…

Nao-san is lucky i wasn’t diving with her because i would shoot that fish and eat it for dinner.  she’s an observer and i’m a hunter.  haha.

i will never forget this day at HT’s in the Mentawai Islands.  the waves we got were incredible.  i wouldn’t be surprised if it was the biggest and best it ever got out there.  i can’t imagine it being better than that.  here is Hayato Maki getting ready for the barrel of his life.  i’m pretty sure he didn’t forget that day too…

when you shoot a big fish, you basically have one shot.  if you shoot the fish right, it will die instantly.  if you don’t, there’s a good chance you will lose the fish and it will swim off and die later.  so when you see a monster fish like this swimming by you, you better be calm and aim right.  and if you think keeping calm is easy, it’s not.  my heart was pumping when i saw this big boy!

Dawn Patrol Traffic Jam…

Good morning 3:30am.
North shore waist to chest high and good.
Ala Moana knee to waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!