when Mateus was a little baby, he had a good sense of humor.  the things he would do would make me laugh all day long.

when i’m taking a nap, he would sit next to me and put stickers all over my body.  haha.

i was hanging out with him yesterday and this kid can still make me laugh.  i seriously wouldn’t be surprised if he grew up to be a comedian.

Thailand will open to tourists starting November 1st.  i kind of got excited because i like Thailand a lot.  the colors of the culture are just amazing.

i would just walk to night market after night market.  stopping and trying everything i possibly could.

and the seafood would fascinate me the most.  you can choose a fish and they will cook it perfectly for you.

and the street food has to be the best in the world.  umm, i’m very tempted to book a ticket to Thailand!   Sawasdee!

Wow, another Boat Trip day!

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds weaker at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

34 years ago, i was taught by Tony Moniz to that in order to be a great surfer, you have to be able to surf every spot on this island.  and ever since then, i’ve been doing that.  so after a week straight at Bowls, i decided to listen to my coach and surf somewhere else.  

i jumped on Mayuki in the dark and headed out for an early morning session somewhere out in the sea.  i had no idea where i would end up…

i paddled out in the dark and couldn’t see much.  but when the sun came up, i realized how good the waves were.

i jumped back on my foil and did a lot more and a lot bigger turns then i did all week on my short board.  omg, i was flying!

imagine riding a 10′ wave on your surfboard and doing a roundhouse cutback.  that’s how it feels when i’m riding a waist high wave on my foil.  it’s pretty amazing!  

and now that i’ve been surfing so much, i feel like my foiling got a lot better too.  i can do things i’ve never ever dreamed of.  when i got back in to the harbor, i felt like i went on a short trip to the Mentawai Island.  i was smiling all day while i was gazing at this photo all day long.  haha.  it’s my best one yet!