Ripping the Bowls Rights…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and good.
Diamond Head 4′ and bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 30mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Nao-san just bought a gopro so she’s been using it a lot in Japan.  and the photos have been amazing!   look at her cute nephews loving the beach so much!

for us adults, we will probably forget the times taking the kids to the beach.  but if you’re a kid, you will remember this for a lifetime…

there’s only one way to get through this pandemic.  it is to get out into nature and breathe the fresh air.  then once you go underwater, you will instantly forget all the problems in this crazy world…

i surfed Bowls this morning and the waves were super good.  amazingly, it wasn’t that crowded at all for a Sunday.  Carter sent me one of my waves and i was pretty happy to see some spray!  the conditions are windy, so if you hit the lip the right way, the spray will double.  yeah!!!

when it’s super windy like now, you can see a different ocean.  and if you look good, you will see waves breaking in places it usually doesn’t break.  that’s pretty cool to absorb…

take this day for example.  if you had a foil and somebody dropped you off way outside in the deep blue ocean, you could ride the wind swells all the way to shore.  i’d say 5 minute rides easily.  i will try that someday…

i remember this trip so well.  i was on a tiny little island in the middle of the Indian Ocean.  there was this huge hut situated right in the middle of the island.  the resort flew in a specialized yoga guru who taught me yoga.  he sat me in the middle and we did yoga, meditated, and ended it by chanting a mantra.  when i left this hut, i felt like i finally found my inner peace.  you could have punched me in the face and called me an asshole, and i would have said to you “namaste.”

last, if you want to discard your computer without worrying about anyone accessing your old data, i can help you with that. i actually have fun doing this.  haha…