October 10, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

High Surf Advisory for East side continues…

Good morning 4:15am.
High surf advisory for East side.
Big and windy so be careful.
South swell continues. Bowls head high and good.
Diamond Head 5′ and super bumpy.
Trade winds at 40mph.
Sun, showers, and the biggest rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Dodging Man O’ Wars

i gambled this morning.  either go to Bowls and surf with 40 hungry surfers gathered in one small area?  or go to Jurassic’s and foil this huge bay with only a few guys.  guess where i chose?  there were 8 of us in the pitch dark getting our foils ready.  i couldn’t see the waves, but i could hear it.  we were so excited!

i was the third guy in the water in this huge bay.  this spot is probably one of the best foiling spots in the world.  it’s like a grown mans Disneyland!

sometimes this bay has angry jellyfish and today was that day. they were everywhere so luckily i had a wetsuit top to keep me protected.  they were stinging our hands but the waves were so good that we all stayed out.  can you see it?

this is what they look like.  the bubble is how they float, and those blue tentacles are the ones that sting you.  if you haven’t gotten stung by one of these before, you should try it.  it will make you strong!

my camera couldn’t focus so i put it away after taking one of Kaiborg on his new board.  he was flying!

*Jurassics was the best it could possibly ever get.  i sometimes forget how much i love that place!

Tokyo Members Only

i heard there’s a new secret private members only restaurant in Tokyo.  run by an amazing Master Chef that turns the freshest food into amazing dishes.  i’ve eaten this Chefs food before and i would describe it as the best homestyle cooking with a touch of class…

the best ingredients cooked the best way to perfection.  omg, my mouth is watering…

this will be my first stop when this pandemic is over.  i want to have private dinner there with my closest friends.  good food, loud noise, and lots of laughs.  hope to see you soon Master Chef Yuri-san!

sooner or later, somebody is going to get hurt out at Bowls.  if you can’t see somebody behind you taking off, and you can’t control your own surfboard, you shouldn’t be out there.  it’s that simple.  Bowls is for advanced surfers so if you’re a beginner sitting in the inside, you will eventually get in the way.  i was talking to some of my local friends yesterday about it and they simply said “it’s ok, i’ll just run them over.”  that’s not good…