Dropping Knee @ Bowls

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana head high and windy offshore.
Diamond Head 5′ and super bumpy.
East side High Surf Advisory.
Strong trade winds at 40mph.
Sun, showers, and huge double rainbows.
Going somewhere.
Have a wonderful day!

last nights surf report said 5-7′ this morning.  WRONG again!  it was more like 1-2′ this morning.  but the small waves didn’t stop the small wavers from heading out!

this was the biggest set of the morning.  it was a big high tide and the waves were weird.  it didn’t feel like Bowls at all.  i felt like i was surfing Diamond Head Cliffs…

Bowls isn’t Bowls without Jeannie Chesser.  she got the best waves and the front row view of the beautiful rainbow.

when ever i look into an empty barrel, it makes me happy.  some waves just look better this way…

anyway, the swell finally arrived this afternoon.  expect head high surf with windy conditions tomorrow.  see you out there!

check out this quote i kept on my computer for a long time.  i don’t remember how i got it, but i remember understanding it.

HARDCORE TRAVEL IS A SACRIFICE. YOU TRADE FRIENDS, FAMILY, RELATIONSHIPS, CAREER, STABILITY, AND NORMALCY FOR STRANGERS, STORIES, ADVENTURES, AND EXPERIENCE. IT’S AN EDUCATION. TRAVEL TEACHES YOU ABOUT LIFE, THE WORLD, AND, MOST OF ALL, YOURSELF…….

after reading it over and over, i realized how traveling changed my life.  yes it’s a huge sacrifice i made, but in the end, i wouldn’t be the person i am today without it.  i learned how to survive, i learned how to appreciate the littlest things, i learned how to adapt, i learned different cultures, i learned about the world, and most of all, i really did learn a lot about myself.   if you think i’m an asshole now, you should have seen me before.  haha.  it was a very humbling to travel this beautiful world we live in.  i absolutely have no regrets!