Blue Hawaii…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana chest high and windy. Coming up later today.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

my tow buddy just sent me this.  it’s the surf forecast for October 21st.  OMG, i thought the first 20′ swell will come in December but i guess it’s coming earlier.  from now till then, i’m going to have a lot of sleepless nights.  haha…

everybody asks me how big is it out there when we tow.  i’m pretty accurate in measuring regular waves, but when it comes to open ocean swells like this, i honestly don’t know.  how do you measure waves that are the same thickness as height?  all i can say is the power of these waves are unexplainable.  it’s literally massive amounts of water rolling through sounding like thunder.  and when you fall, you better hope there’s not another wave behind.  keeping calm is the key to survival because if you panic, you could die…

once again, safety is everything.  you better have the right equipment and the right partner because that’s the only thing we have control over.  everything else is up to Mother Nature so you better be good to her…