Super Cool

super cool to see this photo of Tomami-san and Takahashi-san in Shikoku.  this surfing world is very small.  hope to see you guys soon!

super cool to see these Japanese cars all over the streets in Hawaii.  it makes me miss Japan when i see one.

super cool to see the girls at Alo Cafe.  the best acai and service on the island.

super cool to fly again.  tomorrow i’m hoping for some North Shore tow in action!

World Localism

check out this perfect wave Carter is on!  it’s been super good at Bowls and everybody is super stoked.

**i got asked 4x already about the incident at Bowls with the older Japanese lady who tries to ride every single wave.  a couple guys asked me who it was and i didn’t want to say.  but a couple guys already knew who it was.  and on top of that, i got 4 emails from friends in Japan who read that blog post.  they all said “that Japanese lady is 100% wrong.  if you’re not a local, you should never disrespect locals.  that is a world wide rule.”  i teach my students this rule all the time so they know.  if you break that rule in Hawaii, you will get yelled at if you’re lucky.  i’ve seen surfers get punched in the face before, even women.  so yes, let’s respect the locals, especially if you’re a visitor.

*i’ll keep on bringing this subject up because if you plan to travel to other parts of the world, the consequences are much worst.  i’ve seen visitor girls drop in or talk back to local surfers before and guess what?  the locals go and beat up the girls boyfriend.  that’s embarrassing…

October 4, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Old time long boarders…

Good morning 3:20am.
Ala Moana knee high and fun.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!