Fun Little Barrels at Bowls…

Good morning 3am.
North shore 3-5′ and good.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds getting stronger to 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to training day.
Have a wonderful day!

woke up at 2am, ate breakfast, did my exercises, and headed out to the North Shore.  we were out in the middle of the ocean in the dark.  today was a day to practice driving the ski, and trying out different equipment.  the big day is coming very soon so we’re just keeping busy in the ocean.  today i learned some amazing things!

the waves weren’t that big, but you can still go 40mph (64km) on a wave like this.  it’s the biggest adrenaline rush!

after 3 hours of constant moving around, we ran out of gas and energy.  there’s always tomorrow!  goodnight…

i’m constantly looking at the ocean all day long.  my foil and surfboard is always in my car so if i find perfect waves like this with nobody out, i’m parking my car and jumping in the ocean.  all i takes is a few waves out here and i’m a happy man…

but nothing makes me happier than driving Mayuki and looking for waves.  i can drive up to a spot and have it to myself.  then when people come out, i just move to another spot.  i still feel like i’m living in a dream…