Facial Expressions

i had no expectations this morning so when i got out to the lineup at Bowls, i was pretty stoked to see the waves this good!  i’d have to say that this Summer was and still is the best i’ve ever experienced in my life.  unbelievable…

and thanks to the wind, there are showers.  and thanks to the showers, there are rainbows.  so thanks and thanks!

one of my friends got bored on the beach.  and he was also frustrated on how crowded it was.  so he decided to mix up the slippers a little.

he switched up everybody’s slippers.  haha!  i wish i could have seen the surfers facial expressions when they got it.  haha!

DEFEND YOUR ROOTS

wow, look at this hamachi carpaccio i ate last night!  it was amazing!  after i tried it, i thought “um, i’m going to make it like this next time i spear a fresh fish!”  

Mateus came over and he looked like he go a lot taller.  so i put him against my wall to measure his height.  i didn’t have something straight so i just used a knife.  

i told him don’t move because i had a knife on his head.  he thought i was joking so when he looked up, he froze.  i hope he doesn’t tell his mom what i did.  haha.

super happy to see this photo of Hiyori-chan, Naomi-san, and Kaito-kun.  we met 10 years ago and this family has been in my heart everyday since then.  i really miss you guys!

October 2, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Colors of Hawaii…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!