got a nice photo of Tommy!  a local at Bowls and since we’re on the subject of Bowls, i want to talk about something that happened yesterday out there.  there’s this older Japanese lady that longboards only on the small days.  she comes to Bowls and tries to catch every single wave.  she has no respect for others so whenever she surfs, she thinks every wave was hers.  i’ve been watching her do that for the past few years finally, somebody spoke up.  the older lady caught 5 waves in a row without letting anyone else go.  so one of my female friends dropped in on her which i thought was ok.  then the older lady paddles back out and tells my friend “why you drop in?”  then my friend who is younger, started yelling at her.  she said who do you think you are!  we are all waiting for waves and you are catching everything!  you’re not a local here!  go surf somewhere else!”  i told my friend that she was absolutely right!  i thought that was pretty cool.  my friend is very quiet and very shy, but when she got mad, she was pissed!  after the older lady knew she wasn’t welcomed at Bowls anymore, she paddled away.  then i told my friend and said “you’re my hero!”  haha…

first:  the older lady was wrong by thinking every wave was hers just because she’s on a longboard.

second:  the older lady was wrong by paddling back out and saying something to my friend.  that older lady is from Japan so she has no right telling anybody anything.

third:  i don’t care what country you’re from or how long you lived in Hawaii, you’re still a visitor.  so respect the locals or don’t surf here.

last:  i respect my friend 100% more now because she spoke out her mind.  and she was absolutely correct.  and all the other locals that witnessed that said the same thing.  this rule is universal and if did that in some other countries, you will get your hair pulled out, surfboard broken in half, and teeth knocked out of your mouth.  trust me, i seen it many times before…

so be respectful, be mindful, and be humble…

Mt. Fuji from Shonan:  Photo by Naosan

Good morning 4:40am.
Ala Moana knee to waist high and perfect for longboard.
Diamond Head chest high and little bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea
Have a wonderful day!