i was so happy to see this photo of Toda-san, Takami-san, and Kimura-san!  people ask me when my life changed so much?  i always tell them, it changed from the day i met Kimura-san in Kobochihama 10 years ago.  he gave me so much strength that carries on within me till this day.  he’s my hero!

i was paddling out early this morning and seen something swimming right below me.  it was this huge turtle.  so happy!

the waves were smaller than yesterday but it was still super fun.  no jellyfish and lots of rainbows.  a very peaceful morning at Bowls.

North Korea is at it again.  launching more missiles and testing out our new president.  i’m not political in anyway, but when i get asked who i would like as our president, my answer has always been the same for 30 years.  regardless of republican or democrat, i want my president to be strong, courageous, and not take any bullshit from communist countries.  things are getting worst and this world is getting scary again…

i was passing by Middle Street and saw the rail construction still going on.  this project baffles me.  it supposed to cost $5.2 billion but now it’s expected to cost $12.4 billion.  and it supposed to be competed already but now they are saying 2031?  really?

if we were smart, we would have hired a Japanese company come in to do this from the very beginning.  a project like this would have been easily completed in a couple of years.  yes, i think it’s good to keep the jobs within Hawaii, but this is getting a little ridicules.  

the most frustrating part is we taxpayers are paying for this complete disaster.  i’m not a political guy, but i’m starting to wonder where all the money is going.  or should i say, went?

i’m glad i’m not a politician and just a surfer.  this is my office and i’m glad there aren’t politics in the ocean.  WAIT, there is!  haha…  

yes, Bowls is probably the most political spot in the world.  if you want to surf out there, you better start by waiting on the inside for the leftovers while the Uncles get all the good waves like this.  that’s just how the rules are and it won’t change anytime soon…

Welcome to Paradise…

Good morning 4:10am.
Ala Moana waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Box Jellyfish.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!