this was such an unusual sunrise.  it looked like fire red with black smoke.  i couldn’t stop staring at it.

the waves are still pretty much perfect every morning.  you can’t complain if you’re riding this before you go to work.  

it’s been a while since i took my camera in the water so it was fun taking photos of some of the boys and girls.

and it looks much prettier when the sun comes out.  picture perfect weather!

Have a Swell Day…

Good morning 3:40am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Trade winds back at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

today is the last day of light winds so wanted to make sure i didn’t miss it.

the ocean was like a lake.  super calm and really good waves!

this is how the conditions are every morning in Indonesia.  so yes, i feel like i’m on a surf boat trip right here in Hawaii!

and the water hasn’t been this clean in a very long time.  looking good for a free dive session soon.

i got a barrel today so i was super happy.  it covered my head and i made it out so that made my day even better.  going to look for more tomorrow…