after i ride a wave, i always paddle back out slowly to watch everybody surf.  you can really learn a lot about a surfers personality just by the way they approach the wave.  some surfers are calm, and some are not calm.  just by looking at their eyes, you will know.  and in my opinion, the calmer, the cooler…

Clarance is very calm.  he’s actually smiling when he approaches the waves.  to me, this guy is super cool!

yes, i’ve been pretty lucky surfing perfect waves like this.  i haven’t been to this spot in a long time and i didn’t realize how much i missed it…

Welcome to my lovely paradise…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.
Have a wonderful day!

compared to yesterday, the winds were much much stronger.  i could feel the texture in the ocean because Mayuki was rocking side to side.

just by looking at the clouds racing by the mountains, you could tell something amazing was about to happen.

first was the amazing waves created by the wind.  bigger and better than yesterday.

second was the amazing double rainbow created by the rain.  none yesterday and shining so bright today.  thank goodness i had my camera with me.  had an epic surf and i even got barreled again today.  that’s 2 days in a row!  doubling the pleasure!!!