smooth, graceful, stylish, and an artist.  that’s Jeannie Chesser…

seeing a baby dolphin is cool.  they are very curious so they will come pretty close to you.  then once they get too close, the Mom will come and pull them away.  this one was so cute, until the mom came!

i miss chasing typhoons in Japan.  back then, there were no cell phones, no surf reports, and no lifeguards.   you would go to spots by surfers knowledge. and when you got there, it was literally you vs. nature.  and a lot of times, nature would win…

Paradise Theatre…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sun, clouds, and rain.
Training day.
Have a wonderful day!

i watched the whole WSL contest from start to finish today.  the overall contest was amazing.  the waves were good.  nothing like Pipeline, but a perfect all around wave that requires skill, adaptation, and commitment.  all the surfers performed to their expectations.  but these 2 surfers out surfed the competition and proved why they are World Champions.

Mens World Champion Gabriel Medina:  nobody use to like Gabriel because nobody knew him.  he was a fierce competitor that did anything to win.  his father would be at every contest on the beach pushing him since he was little.  this year, Gabriel left his father at home.  he was different from the start of the year.  he looked loose, he looked happy, he looked revived, and most of all, he looked FREE!  no pressure and very relaxed.  therefore, more confident.  he was the best surfer of the year and this 3rd world title is well deserved.

Women World Champion Carissa Moore:  everybody loves Carissa because she’s the sweetest girl in the world.  she came from behind and showed the world what sweetness and talent can do.  it’s her 5th world title and i predict many more to come.  coming from an Olympic Gold medal and now a World Champion, she is by far the “Surfer of the Year!”

congratulations to both of these true champions.  amazing role models and the best of the best!