A Good Problem

i have 4 magic Trinx foil boards right now.  all 4 of them work really good in different conditions.  i can grab any one of them and feel the magic from the very first ride.  now the hard part is wondering what i’m going to order next?  that’s a good problem…

when you’re a 15 year old girl, you have no worries in life.  all you have to do is enjoy the ride…

it took me over 2 days to get to Nihiwatu on Sumba Island, Indonesia.  i stayed 1 night and had to come back home to Hawaii for an emergency.  so basically i traveled 4 days for just one night of fun.  was it worth it?  it always is.  but i told the person that was responsible for me coming back to Hawaii that when she gets a good job, she better save a lot of money because she owes me a trip back to Nihiwatu.  and hopefully that will be soon…

September 14, 2021 Hawaii Surf Report

Bruce at the Bowl…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Go Naminori.
Have a wonderful day!

Just like a Dream

i was at Diamond Head this evening and the waves were perfect!  head high sets and very long right hand rides.  a surfers dream…

if you have the wrong board, Diamond Head can be a nightmare.  but if you have the right board, Diamond Head is like a dream!

always love the beautiful drive home…

about duck diving, this is the proper way.  this is Shun Murakami when he was a kid at Kewalos.  i miss those days…