Going to the Sea…

Good morning 3:40am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
The Endless Summer continues.
Have a wonderful day!

i’ve been teaching my friend how to duck dive.  duck diving is what you call going under the wave with your surfboard.  in Japan, it’s called dolphin.  for duck diving, timing is everything.  if you dive under too early, the wave will hit you and push you backwards.  if you dive under too late, the wave might suck you over the wave backwards.  so the best way i can explain it is try to think what a dolphin would do going under a wave like this.  timing and flow is very important.  so yes, think like a dolphin and do it like a dolphin.  simple…

ever since i started surfing again, my foiling has gotten much better.  but sometimes as i approach a wave, i forget what i’m riding.  i tried to do an off the lip on a steep wave at Bowls.  on a shortboard, it’s super easy, but on a foil, it can be a little tricky.  everything was feeling so good!

and when things are feeling so good, it can go bad really fast. and when it goes bad, you can break bones…

this is probably the best photo i’ve ever taken of Jeannie Chesser.  the weather was perfect, the conditions were glassy, her style is nice, and the smile couldn’t be any better.  this is how you surf, and this is how you’re supposed to enjoy surfing…

thanks Guy Hagi for showing Hawaii how to enjoy the ocean…

when we paddled to the beach, a beautiful rainbow suddenly appeared in the blue sky.  our day was already full of happiness and it was still only 7am.  haha…