June 2018:  Chiba, Japan

Good morning 4:30am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

check out this new 4’5 Model II custom by Trinx.  this one is ready to fly!!!

made with carbon so super light and very cool!  

in order to capture this photo, the photographer has to be inches of me when i pass by.  he’s swimming without any protecting while i’m literally flying by with a sharp blade.  i would never attempt to take a photo of a foiler like this.  that’s absolutely crazy when i even think about it  so i want to thank photographer Neal Miyake for trusting me.  this is probably the riskiest watershot i’ve ever seen.  high risk, high return!

my friend Rick is in Alaska now fishing for salmon.  he’s been having  some big bear encounters.  omg, i would run!

i’ve never seen a bear before and i never want to see one.  so fishing in Alaska is no longer on my bucket list.

thank you Toda-san for sending me these beautiful photos of your surf trip in Japan.  i can see myself foiling these endless swells with you…

good to see Takami-san back in the lineup.  looking fast and smooth as usual.

and i heard Toda-san lost a lot of weight and is surfing really good.  healthy is happy!

gosh, i really miss surf trips in Japan.  i miss the waves, the weather, the culture, and most of all, my friends…

i quit drinking alcohol but if i was camping with these guys, i would have to drink a cold beer.  or maybe two.  haha…