9/11 20 years later.  wishing for Peace in this World…

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Have a peaceful day!

another beautiful morning out at Bowls.  clean conditions and yet another beautiful sunrise.

the waves were perfect once again.  i feel that this summer has been one of the best in years.  we had that huge historic swells and head high days like this pretty often.

but when you see 4 guys on one wave, it’s time to let the small wave guys have their fun.  i’m taking a break from surfing and waiting for the next swell to come.

the endless summer continues…

my friend was taking a video of me from behind the wave.  after i passed by, i wanted to see how it looked from behind the wave so i pushed extra hard on this turn.  i never see myself in this angle so i though it could help me learn more about my spray.  this shot was right when i hit the lip and started to push my tail.  you can see the spray flying up like a fan horizontally.

then i clearly remember pushing through this turn and extending my back knee right around this time.  that’s why you see the spray start to fly more vertical.  this is when i finished the turn.  you can see the track of my surfboard in the back of the wave, and the spray going straight up towards the clouds.  so what did i learn?  i learned that my spray is going high, but i know i could make it go even higher.  next time i’m going to push a lot harder and hopefully my spray will go over the mountains.  haha.