Malcom @ Ala Moana Bowls @ Sunrise.

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect. Bigger than yesterday.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

omg, i thought the waves were going to be super small this morning so took out my foil.  i was sitting in the inside watching so many empty waves go by.  lots of waves surfed and lots of waves not surfed.

for the first 30 minutes, i had enough waves to be completely satisfied.  it was absolutely epic!

then the waves kept on coming and coming.  it was perfect Bowls!

i saw Troy getting all the good ones.  it made me want to surf!

after this empty barrel passed by me, i was going to paddle back in and switch to my short board.  then i saw my friend and asked her “hey, can i borrow your board for 2 waves?”  but i really meant “hey, give me your board for 2 waves!”  haha.

i caught my first wave and couldn’t believe how comfortable i was right after foiling.  this was my first turn and after that, i felt like i was Josh Moniz.  haha.

this was my second turn and i felt like i was Seth Moniz.  haha.

it felt so good pushing hard and throwing up spray into the golden sunrise.  after this wave, i jumped back on my foil and foiled again.  i was only out for 1.5 hours but it felt like i surfed for 3 rounds.  i think i was the happiest surfer/foiler in the world this morning!

when i’m on my foil and i have my camera, i can get a pretty unique angle.  i’m riding along Jeannie while she’s smiling and ripping at the same time.  cool!  

Bruce got the clip of the day.  my camera is about 7′ over the water so you can see every thing a lot better.

and this is the shot i’m looking for.  it’s like freezing the best split second of the best part of the maneuver.  i love it!

when i was teaching the kids about diving, i use to always tell them to take care of the ocean, and take care of the Uncles.  so when Benji dropped off a vacuum sealed bag of fresh sashimi he just speared, i thought to myself “wow, i taught these kids good.”  haha.  thank you Benji!  

this is the only way i eat my fresh sashimi these days.  there is a local chef that prepares it carpaccio style for me.  it’s the absolute best!