Early morning speed blur…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to shoot.
Have a wonderful day!

yesterday i felt like riding a lot of waves with nobody around.  today, i felt like taking out my camera and shooting some friends.  this morning was a perfect photogenic day at the Bowl.

Bruce always getting the good waves.

Dana ripping the inside all to himself.

Jeannie is the Queen of Bowls.

today was another day of “locals only.”  i counted 9 locals in the lineup and there were only 2 waves per set.  i did the math and that’s why i decided to sit in the inside and watch the local boys conquer the spot.  i had a lot of fun watching…

then right when we came in, there was this huge double rainbow.  another perfect day in paradise.

my boards are working so good that what ever i take out, i’ll have the time of my life.  can’t wait for tomorrow…

look how young the boys were!  this was when Shun Murakami use to stay with me.  i would wake them up every morning when it’s still dark, then drag them to the beach.  back then, nobody knew Seth and Shun.  now, they are Hawaiian and Japanese superstars.  little did these kids know how famous they would become.  another priceless photo of history in the making…

on a trip to Bali, we would sit by the pool and play around all day long.    we’d swim, paddle, box, exercise, eat, drink, and make a lot of noise.  it was one of the best trips in my life because i was with a special group of friends.  this was back in 2012 when i first started to meditate.  and this was when i finally found inner peace.  ever since then, i learned how to be calm just by taking slow deep breaths…