Surfing Ala Moana: Longboarders dream wave.
Ala Moana: Free parking, free shower, and free life.
Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!
i had a choice this morning. either to go Bowls and take turns with the boys in the lineup? maybe catch 6 waves in 2 hours? or go somewhere else and ride any and every wave i wanted. after thinking about what would make me happier today, that was an easy choice.
i rode any and every wave i wanted. it felt so free and it felt so peaceful being the first guy out in the ocean.
the conditions were super nice this morning. perfect for surfing or foiling.
Egan Inoue paddled out early too and i was watching him fly. we were talking about surfing and foiling. he was thinking the exact same thing about being so free on the foil. we had an amazing session.
this is my happy place. i wanted to be free today and i felt free just like a bird. i had one of the best foil sessions i had in a very long time.
and walking back to my car is pretty peaceful too. after this, i had a 8 hour course to get my jet ski license. i almost fell asleep in class. haha. but i passed so one more qualification to my resume. now i can legally operate a jet ski. until now, i guess i was illegal. opps…
Nakahodo-san was in Japan browsing through google maps in Hawaii and saw something that looked familiar. so he sent me this photo. omg, that’s me driving home on google maps! thank goodness i wasn’t doing anything illegal. haha.
thank you Neal for another cool photo. when i look at this, i can see myself looking at this nice long steep wall at Ala Moana Bowls. i’m trying to maneuver my foil to go up the face of the wave and turn without running anyone over. so yeah, i’m focused and pretty confident. if i wasn’t, i wouldn’t be doing this because it’s way too risky. 
thank you Chichan for sending me these amazing photos from Maui. omg, i see this wave and it makes me want to go there right now! that looks super fun!
and this would be a foilers dream wave. with Molokai in the back, it would be like i’m flying in Heaven…
and the sunset to end off the day. now i’m thinking about going to Maui next. i hope Mayuki will take me there!
