Evolution…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

light winds and a small swell.  that means Diamond Head will be good for foiling.  so that’s where i went this morning.  it was as good as it gets.

i haven’t been foiling much recently so good to catch up with the boys.  and now that i see the whole spot more as a surfer, i can understand why surfers hate foilers.  i already knew that, but now it’s very obvious because foilers can ride a wave forever.

Dane flying through perfect Diamond Head conditions.

i think this part of the coastline is so magical.  every time i paddle in, i just look at these houses and wish i owned one.  to be able to foil right to your doorstep must be pretty awesome.

the walk back to the car isn’t that bad too.

then i look at the green park and think how lucky i am to live 8 minutes right up the road…

anyway, the South shore picked up a little this evening.  tomorrow morning is going to be super good!  goodnight.

i have to say that this summer has to have been the most perfect when it comes to weather.  i think it only rained 2 days in the past 3 months?  other than that, it’s been super sunny with cool trade wind breezes.  

and now that i have my new Dove 1mm long sleep top, i’m pretty much using this everyday.  it protects me from the cold, the wind, the sun, and most important, the jellyfish.  get one and you won’t regret it.  my size is 172-M just for your information.  i like it nice and tight so i did order one size smaller than normal…

i saw this crazy guy riding a super small dirt bike.  and when i saw him drive on the freeway, i thought he was crazier!

then i realized, i had that same exact bike and did the same exact thing.  except, i had my suitcase tied to the back.  haha.  i’m glad i finally grew up.  and that was only last year.  omg!