The Dark Room…

Good morning 3:40am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high sets and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

seems like the waves dropped a little today but started to come back up this afternoon.  perfect conditions continue and a couple more South swells on the way.  stoked!

drove out to the North Shore today.  super clean and beautiful day for rest and relaxing…

omg, i didn’t know they started to sell hulihuli chicken again!   could smell it from a mile away…

my mouth started to water as i waited for my chicken to be ready.  like usual, it was delicious!

then came back to town for the high tide afternoon session.

being in the ocean is the most peaceful place to be during this pandemic.  once a day is good, but twice a day is double good…

my friend in Tokyo said the convenience stores don’t sell alcohol anymore.  it discourages people from going on the streets and drinking.  in Japan, it’s legal.  in America, you will go to jail for drinking on the streets.  why can’t everybody drink at home?  and why would you go out on the street and drink when we’re in the middle of a pandemic?   oh well, just take care of yourself because that’s all you can do…

The Hawaiian Endless Summer…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Trade winds back down to 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!