it’s already September and while all the town surfers are sad that Summer is coming to an end, i’m super excited that the Winter big wave season is right around the corner.  for the past 6 months, i’ve been waking up every morning at 3am and staying focused.  exercising, eating right, and keeping alert.  by 4am, i’m always 100% ready mentally and physically for the biggest and craziest thing i will ever attempt in my life.  when that call comes, i’m going to drive out to the North Shore, meet up with the boys, and i’m going to let go of the rope on a 20′ set.  that’s my dream.  and i can see that dream becoming reality very soon…

these are the small waves we just train on.  here is my sensei Kaiborg showing me how it’s done.  after towing in with these guys, i learned so many new things.  but the most important is taking care of my body and mind.  when both of that are healthy, anything is possible…

i was sitting on the hill playing with the chickens.  it made me really miss Pepper…

the biggest day of the last historic swell, we all jumped off Magic Island to paddle to Bowls.  it’s usually flat and calm here but not on this day.  it was wild just trying to get in the water.  

Diamond Head use to be my training ground.  for a period of 10 or more years, i would surf there every single day.  so there’s a lot of special memories still in the water there…

Yesterday @ Bowls:  South swell and perfect weather continue…

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and super bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!