we surfed another early morning session.  i didn’t expect the waves to be bigger than yesterday but it sure was.  lots of waves and lots of jellyfish too.

look what i ate today!  this has to be the fattest burrito on the island.  after i ate the whole thing, i felt like a pig.  haha.

round 2 was at a secret spot.  we took out these boards and had the whole spot to ourselves.

when you have the whole ocean to yourself, you can scream, yell, laugh, and ride any wave your heart desires.  it was surely a dream session for us three amigos…

i’ve been working and thinking hard about my own surfboards recently.  it’s the first time in my life i’m super focused on getting the perfect magic boards.  and so far, all the hard work is paying off because whenever i ride my surfboards now, i feel super connected.  i haven’t felt this way about surfing for over 10 years…

when Ben Aipa use to coach me 33 years ago, he use to sit right here on top of Diamond Head Cliffs.  he taught me about the lineup, the current, the winds, the waves, and the swell direction.  he basically made me master the lineup because we had many contests there.  i had to run up and down the cliff multiple times a day.  when i did something he didn’t like, he would whistle to me, then i would have to come back in, climb up the trail, and he would tell me what i did wrong.  then i would have to go back down and do it all over again.  that trained me to surf Cliffs physically and mentally.  and now i love to pass that knowledge on to my students.  so they’re getting some Ben Aipa coaching techniques.  maybe i should make them run up and down the hill too.  that taught me how to listen really good.  haha…you have a gorgeous view from the top.  look to the right and you can see the island of Molokai.  

Ben use to teach me the secret about triangles.  do you know what it means?  probably not but if you did, it would make you a much better surfer at every surf spot around the world.  sorry, that secret is just for my students…

then after sweating on the top of the hill, i go down and cool off in the beautiful ocean.  then ride a couple waves to fulfill my day.  can’t beat that feeling…

Front Row @ Diamond Head

Good morning 3:30am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high. Bigger than yesterday.
Diamond Head chest high.
Trade winds back at 20mph.
Sunny, warm, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!