this morning we made a secret mission.  left at dark, drove an hour and half, and foiled the most sacred secret spot in Hawaii. it was my first time so i actually had to promise not to tell anybody.  and if i did, the consequence will be a broken arm.  so yeah, i’m not telling anybody…

one of the boys had an apple watch so we documented our session.  each of us caught 25 waves, rode the waves for 3 miles (4.83 kilometers), and that wasn’t including the long paddles out after each wave.  by the end of our dream session, none of us could even paddle or walk.  our arms and legs were numb…

yes, i promised these boys i won’t tell anyone our secret mission.  i don’t want my arms to be broken by these 2 huge guys so i’m keeping silent.  thanks boys for the amazing memory!

i was so happy today that after a came in, i went back out this afternoon to foil a few waves in Waikiki.  after riding 2 waves, i got bored and went in. nothing compares to what i experienced this morning.  nothing…

Mateus was at my house so i asked him to help me out.  i was testing a new water housing for my camera.  he sat there and said “ok.”  

then once i dipped my camera in a container of water, he made this funny face.  i couldn’t stop laughing…

so far, camera housing working good.  back to some lovely photos of my lovely days…

i was taking a nap when Mateus came to me and woke me up.  after a beautiful dream, this is what i saw.  haha!

Diamond Head:  Green is Back!

Good morning 4:20am.
Ala Moana shoulder high and perfect.
Diamond Head head high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to a secret spot.
Have a wonderful day!