Jurassic’s is like Disneyland for a surfer.  there are lots of people from all walks of life having a great time.  Barton Lynch is from Australia, knows where the best waves are, but you can find him here on any good day.  the parking lot gets full, the lineup gets crowded, but it’s all worth it.  after 7 days of that, i was hoping it got flat again.  then i can go back to my slow life.  and it did…

i would pay thousands of dollars and travel half way around the world for a session like this.  nobody out, perfect waves, and foil fever.  after a week at Jurassic’s, this is exactly what i needed.  my little boat trip party!  balance is everything…

Welcome back to Blue Hawaii!

Good morning 4am.
North shore chest high and coming up to 4-6′ later today.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

i was driving on the way out to Jurassic’s when i noticed the wind suddenly stopped.  that means no more East swell.  so i did a u-turn and came back to town.  jumped on Mayuki and checked the waves close up.

it was a beautiful day in the ocean!  sun was rising and i didn’t see one surfer at Waikiki.

then came the early morning paddlers passing by.  it was kind of beautiful watching this.

then it was my time to fly.  there was nobody out and the waves were super good for foiling.  offshore and perfect!  

after the past 7 days of wind, rain, and storm, today was like heaven.  i’ll take it either way but the sun felt really good…