i must have the foil fever because after foiling the East side all day, i come back to town and foil until the sun sets.  it’s been cold and windy but if you have a good wetsuit and a good board, it can’t get any better.

please watch this video.  this is one of my favorite classic Hawaiian songs because the words have so much meaning.  when i hear this song, it makes me very happy, and also makes me love Hawaii even more.  and if you can’t come to Hawaii because of the coronavirus, this will surely cheer you up.  THESE ISLANDS by Danny Couch…

Last day of the week at Jurassic’s.  Next week more to come…

Good morning 5am.
North shore waist to chest high and getting cleaner. Bigger tomorrow.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the ocean.
Have a wonderful day!

everybody was saying the waves on the East side will be flat today, but when my house was shaking last night with the strong winds, i knew there had to be swell.  so i gambled and headed to Jurassic’s.  and guess what?  there was swell!  super good conditions and when i got there, there were only 3 foilers out.  then after 3 hours of foiling, there were 30.  everybody came late today so i was very lucky to get there early!!!

right when you leave Jurassic’s, there is a road with big trees on the left side.  it was here yesterday where one of these trees fell on a moving car.  

it’s creepy to think the tree fell on the car literally minutes after i passed by.  anything can happen at any minute so you have to enjoy your life to the fullest.  that was one of the reasons i drove out there again today.  i got another free pass at Jurassic’s!  

and the drive home is just breathtaking.  this is about where i think to myself “i’d drive out here every single day it there were waves.”  BUT, Jurassic’s is only good a few days out of the year.  and for the past 7 days, i’ve been good!

i wasn’t the only one with the extra free pass today.  so nice to see the happy faces during this crazy time of our lives…