when i was 19 years old, my favorite surfing maneuver was the cutback.  i would do cutback after cutback, wave after wave.  the feeling of getting speed, going outside the wave, and cutting back into the white wash felt so good.  i clearly remember the feeling of my very first cutback of my life and i will never forget it…

now over three decades later, i’m still loving the cutback.  i’m going faster, bigger, and steeper.  the feeling is the same as when i did my first one.  i hope to be doing this for three decades more…

Good morning my little friend…

4:30am.
North shore waist high and good.
Ala Moana waist high and bumpy. Little bigger than yesterday.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to North Shore.
Have a wonderful day!

as i was walking down the cliff early this morning, i saw a guy with a flashlight walking down after me.  when he saw me, i think he was surprised to see me walking down in the pitch dark.

my feet are like gorilla feet.  i go mostly by feel because i can’t see a thing.

one of the early morning guys paddled out after and said “wow, early huh?”  in my mind, i was thinking about how i’ve been so dedicated to my New Years resolution which was to enjoy every single sun rise of 2021.  so far so good.  anyway, as the sky started to light up, i’m foiling and pumping back out watching the magic show begin…

and it only gets better and better…

and when it’s over, i’m catching my last wave to the beach…

then climbing back up the cliff, i’m thinking to myself “wow, this never gets easy.”  i’ve been walking up and down this cliff for the past 35 years of my life.  and when i reach the top, i’m totally out of breath.  haha…

change into warm clothes, jump in my car, and i have a full day ahead.  i’m going to do this for the rest of my life…