i’ll never forget the first time i went to the Japan Sea.  i was expecting clean water and beautiful beaches.  i walked down this tall mountain, hiked along a long trail, and i finally found the beach.  not only did i find the beach, i found tons of garbage!  that was 14 years ago and i bet it’s even worse now.  

so i jumped in and looked around to see what the Japan Sea had to offer…

in about 10′ deep of water, i found shellfish everywhere!  i stopped by a convenience store on the way back to my minshuku, had the mama-san cook me up the sazae and abalone, and had the best appetizers of my life.  the cool thing is i clearly remember  exactly that secret spot and next time i pass by the Japan Sea, i’m going to stop there for sure.  next time i’m taking a cooler and bbq with me because i’m going to eat it right on the beach.  can’t wait!

Early morning swell clouds…

Good morning 4:40am.
North shore chest high and good.
Ala Moana knee to waist high and clean.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and fun.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sun, clouds, rain, thunder, and lighting.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

when i was driving to Diamond Head this morning in the dark, i saw a spectacular lighting show!  so i wanted to get out before as fast as i could so i can watch it while i’m foiling.  

the clouds were so dark and you could just tell that a wicked storm was brewing right off shore.  

every minute there would be lighting.  it was so cool watching this from the ocean.  

sometimes the lighting was so bright that it would light up the whole sky.  it was so beautiful!  i bet a lot of surfers saw this and never paddled out.  but it’s days like this i look forward to.  imagine being out in uncrowded surf with Mother Nature giving you the show of your life.  this is how i feel so connected to nature…